Understanding Acne and The Expert Tips You Need To Control It

Dealing with acne can be incredibly challenging, impacting your skin, self-esteem, and overall quality of life. Various factors, from hormonal changes to lifestyle choices, contribute to this widespread skin condition.

Understanding the different types of acne and what causes them is the first step to building an effective skincare routine. In this guide, we cover the types and causes of acne, then hand over to our expert friends from some of your favourite skincare brands for their best advice.

This type is characterised by occasional blackheads, whiteheads, and sporadic red spots, typically affecting less than half of the face. Although less severe, it can still be bothersome and may require targeted treatment.

As acne progresses, moderate cases involve more extensive areas of the face, with an increased presence of blackheads, whiteheads, and inflammatory papules and pustules. The skin may appear reddened and inflamed, indicating a more aggressive condition.

At the severe end of the spectrum, acne can cover most of the face, leading to substantial discomfort and psychological distress. This stage often involves a combination of blackheads, whiteheads, inflammatory nodules, and cysts, causing significant inflammation and scarring.

Excess Sebum Production:

One of the primary drivers of acne is the overproduction of sebum, the skin’s natural oil. This excess oil can clog pores, providing a breeding ground for acne-causing bacteria and leading to blemishes.

Pore-Clogging:

Alongside sebum, dead skin cells and environmental debris can accumulate within pores, exacerbating acne. Proper cleansing and exfoliation are essential for preventing pore blockages and minimising breakouts.

Bacterial Colonisation:

Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) bacteria often aggravate Acne within the hair follicles. These bacteria contribute to inflammation and the formation of inflammatory lesions characteristic of acne.

Not all acne is the same, and neither are the products designed to treat it. Understanding which type you're dealing with is the single most important step before reaching for anything new.

At Bioderma we understand that biologically in the skin, there are different things going on within each of these acne sub-types and so naturally, they need to be treated differently.

We have Sebium Kerato+ Moisturiser which is specialised in treating mild acne over the counter, an exfoliating and hydrating daily moisturiser. Then we have Sebium Sensitive Moisturiser, which is formulated to treat sensitive skin suffering from moderate acne and that may be starting to feel weakened from using acne-prescribing treatments. 

Finally, we have Sebium Hydra Moisturiserwhich is our most nourishing formula to help those with severe acne who may be extremely dry and irritated from taking isotretinoin (Roaccutane) treatments to treat their acne as prescribed by their medical professional.

The foundation of any acne routine is cleansing. But more isn't always better - the goal is to clean the skin without stripping it.

Acne comes down to three main things: overproduction of oil, pore-clogging, and bacterial colonisation.

To treat it effectively: cleanse twice daily to remove impurities, dirt, and oil; choose products with ingredients targeted at blemish management, such as salicylic acid; and build your routine slowly - skin renews roughly every month, so give each new product at least four weeks before judging results. It is completely normal to have acne, and nothing to be ashamed of. If you're experiencing negative thoughts around your skin, please speak to a professional.

Acne Vulgaris is the medical term for common acne. Acne is caused by a combination of factors, including hormonal changes, excessive oil production, and bacteria.

The most common areas for breakouts are the face, chest, shoulders, and back, presenting with comedones, blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, cysts, and nodules.

It can affect all genders of all ages. Keeping your skin clean is an important way to treat and prevent acne. Use a Ph pH-balanced face wash like Alpha H Triple Action Cleanser pH 5.0 / 5.5, which has a soothing, calming action on the skin from Aloe Vera extract, which also has natural anti-inflammatory properties. It will improve skin hydration and reduce epidermal water loss.

breakout, congested, and acne-prone skin can also have a dull complexion, with sometimes an uneven skin tone and texture. A BHA exfoliating treatment is designed to decongest pores, control excess oil, and minimise bacteria that lead to breakouts.

Alpha H purifying tonic with 2% Salicylic acid is enriched with naturally anti-inflammatory ingredients such as eucalyptus, arnica, and thyme to soothe, clear, and rebalance the skin.

To help minimise the appearance of breakouts, I also recommend a deep cleansing mask to target specific areas. Topicrem Purifying Mask with a duo of white and green clay will absorb and correct excess sebum, it has a global action on shine, visible pores, imperfections, and residual marks. Marine algae extract for its anti-inflammatory action.

Microbiome balance is key for breakout-prone skin. Avoid harsh actives that disrupt the skin's barrier. Start with gentle cleansing, then support your skin with probiotic skincare to encourage a clear, calm complexion.

It's not about the water, it's about how gentle your cleanser is on your skin's natural barrier. If you wear foundation, start with a micellar water to remove makeup, then follow with a gentle gel, cream wash, or cleansing balm.

Managing stress through relaxation techniques and self-care practices can complement skincare routines in combating acne. Chronic stress can exacerbate acne by stimulating sebaceous gland activity and impairing skin cell turnover.

Acne can be influenced or aggravated by various lifestyle factors — including our diet, stress, sleep quality, and skincare habits — all of which intimately connect to our gut health and microbial balance.

Let’s explore the connections: A diet high in refined sugars, dairy, and processed foods can disrupt the gut microbiome, potentially triggering systemic inflammation that manifests through the skin via the gut-skin axis. Chronic stress affects gut permeability and microbiota balance, fuelling inflammatory pathways that can trigger breakouts. Poor sleep can impair gut repair mechanisms, while harsh skincare routines can further disrupt the skin-gut axis. Supporting a healthy, diverse gut microbiome is foundational for achieving clear, resilient skin. We formulated our Clear capsules with hero probiotic Acusolve, to support healthy gut function and restore balance to the microbiome, for a holistic approach to acne from within.

Chronic stress is a top cause of acne, it sends the skin’s sebaceous glands in overdrive, and slows down cell turnover. Our Clear Start set helps control oil, unblock pores and calm the skin.

Active ingredients can make a real difference, but applying them incorrectly is one of the most common, and costly  mistakes.

It’s best to kill the problem with kindness: gentle, restorative cleansing, deep hydration (B3 aka Niacinamide is great for this), and using one active ingredient at a time. Is a good rule of thumb. Think: Azelaic acid OR Retinol, but only once your skin barrier is back in balance.

Remember, breakouts happen, and there’s no shame in getting help from us, a friend or a dermatologist. With the right approach, you can conquer acne and be skin-confident!

And one more myth worth busting: the idea that the sun will "dry out" your acne. Sun exposure can temporarily shrink spots — but research suggests this often leads to rebound acne once you're back home, with spots returning in greater force. UV damage also causes the kind of scarring and pigmentation that's much harder to treat than the original breakout. A daily, acne-friendly SPF is non-negotiable.